Frequently Asked Questions

A:The sweet spot on a wood bat can be found between the logo and personalization where the barrel reaches it's maximum diameter. The average sweet spot is a couple inches long.

A:The general rule of thumb is you want to make contact with either the logo facing up or down along the edge grain, especially with ash bats.

Maple and birch the exact orientation is debatable on where contact should be made. With the ink dot rules where the logo is rotated 90 degrees to encourage hitting on the face grain as opposed to the edge grain. This results in a "safer" break but hitting hitting on the face grain shouldn't make your bat break easier.

A:Cupping is the removal of wood from the end of the bat that makes the bat between .5 ounce to 1 ounce lighter, depending on the depth of the cup. This is done to slightly change the balance point of the bat from a more end-loaded feel to a more balanced feel and is a player preference.

Cupped bats do tend to be more durable because they allow for a denser billet to be used in the making of the bat.

A:Personalization is limited to 1 line and 20 characters max including spaces.

A:All of our bats are made from prime grade hand split billets. Prime grade splits make it so every bat will pass the slope of grain test of grain straightness making them the strongest bats on the market.

A:Please refer to our Wood Bat Care Tips page.

A:No. Rubber cage balls will damage your wood bat and cause it to break prematurely.

A:When a bat description says a bat is a "-3" it means the bat is three ounces lighter than the length of the bat. Also referred to as having as "drop 3".

Example: A 33" bat that is a -3 will weigh 30 ounces. A 33" bat that is a -2 will weigh 31 ounces.

A:All of our adult wood bats are made to a -2 to -3 weight differential, youth bats will be between a -4 to -5 weight differential, and softball bats will be between a -4 to -5 weight differential.